Toronto Star

Wednesday, July 7, 2004
Ontario Edition
By Cynthia David

On a quiet street nearby, Suisha Gardens' jolly owner Frank Teshima has converted a former leather factory into a Japanese food emporium. Teshima, who arrived in Vancouver 33 years ago with $712 in his pocket, has owned restaurants across the country. He even built the lamps and some of the maple furniture in his Niagara restaurant, which has its own suisha, or waterwheel.
At Suisha's 11 teppan or steel grill tables - the cooking technique was invented in the U.S. in the 1960s - chefs turned showmen juggle wooden salt and pepper shakers and dodge shooting flames as they flambe shrimps and filet mignon with brandy and butter, and toss veggies on the grill in front of hungry customers.
The sprawling 350-seat restaurant also boasts a sushi bar, Japanese grill, noodle station and karaoke room, as well as several large dining rooms for tour groups. Maguro Karami, a spice-crusted tuna loin, is popular.
The Niagara Kyo-Mart attached to Suisha (5701 Lewis Ave., 905-354-1500.) is a treasure trove of Japanese ingredients. From frozen edamame and fish cakes for soup to pink pickled ginger and genmai cha, made with green tea and toasted brown rice, this well stocked store rivals any in Toronto. It is frequented by chefs and locals. Teshima's wife Ayako runs the shop, while daughter Lisa manages the restaurant.